Samsung appliance repair, for refrigerators, washers, dryers and dishwashers.

Possible causes: Samsung starts with the freezer: it has to be at 0°F or colder to make ice, even when the ice maker sits up in the fridge door. Then the Ice Off setting, the water supply and an old filter.

Check first: Ice Off not lit, nothing but ice in the bucket, and the water: Samsung expects about 3/4 cup from the dispenser in under 10 seconds, and rates its filters at about six months. More on ice maker repair.

Possible causes: the ice maker defrosts itself; when it ices up, Samsung says that defrost isn’t working and the ice maker needs service. Frost on the bucket itself can come from a gap at the chute, the bucket’s seal or the dispenser flap.

Check first: don’t try to defrost it yourself, and no hair dryer or other heat: Samsung warns that heat will damage the refrigerator. On Family Hub and other SmartThings models, Samsung has a firmware update for this; connect the fridge to SmartThings and it installs itself.

Possible causes: OF in both temperature readouts, O FF or scrolling bars is Cooling Off, a display mode, and Samsung says service is not required. Otherwise a door that isn’t sealing or blocked vents, or a fan code: 21E is the freezer fan, which Samsung says has usually frozen up from a door left open or a gap in the gasket; 22E is the fridge fan.

Check first: the doors close and the gaskets touch all the way round. For anything else on the display, see photograph the code before you do anything to it.

Possible causes: 4C (or 4E, nF) means water isn’t getting in the way it should; nd, 5C or 5E means it isn’t draining fast enough, or at all.

Check first: for 4C, each hose on the right inlet, nothing kinked, both valves fully open. For a drain code, Samsung says a badly placed drain hose is the most common cause and service is rarely needed: the hose end goes 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe. If the water inside is hot, Samsung says to give it about an hour to cool first.

Possible causes: UE and Ub are Samsung’s unbalanced load codes. dC is the tricky one: on some Samsung washers it means the door, on others an unbalanced load, and Samsung points owners to the manual for their model.

Check first: untangle the load and spread it round the drum, and check nothing is caught in the door. If dC keeps coming back, text us the code and the model label in one message.

Possible causes: an electric dryer runs on two circuits; if only one trips, Samsung says, the drum turns but there’s no heat. HE means it’s getting too hot, most often from a clogged lint screen or vent, and C80 or C90 is the vent test reporting it 80 or 90 percent blocked.

Check first: the dryer’s breaker off for 30 seconds and back on, then the lint screen and the vent. Our dryer vent cleaning covers the duct. Low voltage at the outlet is a job for an electrician.

Possible causes: 5C, 5E, SC or SE is Samsung’s drain error. LC or LE means the leak sensor has found moisture; the dishwasher then keeps trying to drain and won’t switch off.

Check first: Samsung asks owners to troubleshoot before resetting a code, or the cause stays. For a drain code, the filter, a pinched drain hose and, on a newly fitted disposal, its knockout plug. For LC, look for water under the machine and call or text us.

Possible causes: Samsung’s list runs long and depends on the model. -dE- or -dC- means the oven’s partition isn’t seated; C-24 means the oven is heating faster than normal, generally because the vent on the back of the cooktop is blocked; tESt is demo mode, and nothing heats.

Check first: Samsung’s reset is off and on with the Power button; if the code returns, the breaker off for 30 seconds. A gas range? Call or text us before you book.